"I go into detail about surfing and chasing big waves, I also open up about how the concussions and trauma I suffered from big wave surfing impacts me everyday. You’ll have a better understanding of why I don’t surf big waves any more. I’ve never told this particular story+ I’m excited to share." Derek Dunfee
About the Author: Derek didn’t get his start as a photographer. A lifelong surfer raised on the reefs of La Jolla, California, Dunfee soon began traveling the world. Going on to become one of the most respected big wave surfers on the planet. Fast forward to present day, and he's reached a comfort level in heavy conditions that allows him to take his camera into scenarios most could never imagine. Dunfee's images take you right into the heart of some of the ocean's most powerful moments. It's this Unique perspective that makes his imagery so remarkable, and ultimately timeless.
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